by Dusty Middleton
Surfed the Rockpile this afternoon in a lucky little spring swell. I was wearing a spring suit. I had a spring to my step as I left the house and drove straight there hoping for a wave.
It was small for the Rockpile. But, whenever there’s north swell, the place is fast and powerful. It’s always exciting.
The inside, if dared, was dangerous, rocky and I’d say quite helmet worthy.
Johnny Angel who was charging, leashless on a soft-top, said that he got bumped on the ass by a rock after a wipeout. “Luckily it hit me on a soft part of muscle. If it had been my hip, it might of broken it.”
A minute later I watched his buddy straighten out on one and take it to the beach. He came up holding his head, and I was afraid for him. Getting bodyslammed into one foot of water head-first is terrifying.
The waves were fun and for real. Jensen and Emmi came out and surfed the right at the Pile. It seemed like Jensen was holding himself back. Being careful about his healing knee. Emmi was charging on a soft-top, leashless too. She caught plenty waves and rode them well.
I was happy with my surfing, and happy to get a good one in before dark. While I was drying off, and peeling away the spring suit I didn’t see any more sets, and that made me very happy that I’d come in.